LutronCaseta Original Smart Dimmer Switch ELV+ (Lutron Hub Required), 250W LED, Single-Pole/3-Way, Neutral Required, PD-5NE-IV, Ivory

These are outstanding dimmers, but only for homes with a neutral wire (usually a cluster of white wires in the very back of the junction box, found in newer homes built since the 80s). There is also firmware bug in these switches that I confirmed with Lutron tech support on 3/31/2017 that prevents you from setting accurate trim levels. The work-around to the firmware bug is explained here.The first thing you need to know about this switch is that your LEDs may still buzz with it unless you switch the phasing from forward to reverse. The instructions in the Advanced Caseta Installation guide are incorrect or at least unclear. The correct way to switch the phasing from MLV (Magnetic Low Voltage) to ELV (Electronic Low Voltage -- the type of phasing preferred by LED bulbs) is to:1. Pull out the tiny hidden tab at the bottom of the switch for 3 seconds. Push the tab back in then.2. Simultaneously hold down the On and Off buttons for about 10 seconds3. The top and bottom LEDs either light or flash. If the top LED flashes, the switch is operating in MLV mode. If the bottom LED flashes, the switch is operating in ELV mode. To toggle modes, press the Favorite button until the correct LED flashes. If you are using LED lights, use the bottom ELV mode.4. Commit the phase change by holding Off for about 6 seconds.The above actions eliminate the buzz in LED lights.The second thing you need to know is this switch has an upper and lower trim function so that you can create a linear dimming range. This is especially helpful for LED bulbs which cannot usually dim as low as incandescents. All Caseta dimmers have an upper and lower trim function, but the firmware implementation on the PD-5NE is buggy and the trim functions aren't working accurately unless you follow these instructions.1. Set the lower trim first. Hold down On and the Down arrow for 10 seconds until the LED blinks to show the lower trim level.2. Set the lower trim level to the dimmest (or just above the dimmest) that your lights can go. Most LEDs cannot get as dim as incandescents.3. Commit the lower trim setting by holding Off for 6 seconds. Then turn the light off.4. VERY IMPORTANT: The microprocessor is running buggy firmware. You must now pull the hidden tab at the bottom of the switch for three seconds to kill the power to the microprocessor. Then push it back in. This act effectively reboots the internal microprocessor and is needed to ensure the high trim function doesn't overwrite or otherwise mess-up your low trim setting.5. Now set the high trim to the highest that you want your lights to go. A lot of LEDs reach their maximum brightness well before the high trim mark is reached. For a truly linear dimming experience, set the high trim to the maximum brightness level your eyes can perceive. This will make the dimming appear smooth and linear for a better user experience. Set the high trim by holding down On and the Up arrow for 10 seconds until the LED blinks to show the upper trim level.6. Set the upper trim level to the brightest (or just below the brightest) that your lights can go. Most LEDs reach maximum brightness well before the high trim mark.7. Commit the upper trim setting by holding Off for 6 seconds. Then turn the light off.8. VERY IMPORTANT: Because of the buggy firmware, pull the pin on the switch to cut the power for three seconds to reset the microprocessor. Push the pin back in. Then verify that the low trim is accurate by pressing the up arrow once. The dimness of the light should be precisely what you specified in steps 2-3. Verify the high trim setting is accurate by turning the light on full power. The brightness should be what you specified in steps 6-7.9. Verify the phasing is still set correctly. There should be no buzzing throughout the dimming range. My own user experience suggests that setting the trim can, in certain scenarios, cause the switch to forget whether you specified forward or reverse phasing (ELV vs. MLV). You may need to repeat the phasing setting to ensure there's no buzzing.Lutron tells me they will investigate this firmware bug and the switch ought to be software updatable they claim. I imagine any update would be issued through the Smart Bridge 2. I await their investigation. In the meantime, this work around enables you to establish accurate upper and lower trim functions that stick (or are remembered) correctly.

The ELV PD-5NE-xx dimmer is pricy, requires a white ‘nuetral’ wire, but it’s also the switch to get. It resolves all of the weaknesses of the cheaper Caseta dimmer (PD-6WCL-xx). I don’t know why the CNET type reviewers don’t hit on the weaknesses of the PD-6WCL-xx, the Amazon verified customers sure notice. In this review I reference the less expensive switch, but the truth is both Caseta switches are pricey.Lutron Caseta ELV PD-5NE-xx dimmer pros and cons:PROS:- Allows setting favorite or default dim lvl at switch, just as on the pico remote (not available on Caseta PD-6WCL-xx switch)- Uses white neutral wire which creates a more stable platform. Bulbs shut off without an after glow (Caseta PD-6WCL-xx has no neutral wire)- Supports a wide range of bulbs all work perfectly without flicker or hum. The bulbs I’ve tested and use include many of the vintage type dimmable LED bulbs branded and distributed by smaller companies, and I haven’t had any issues (the cheaper Caseta PD-6WCL-xx had problems with many bulbs including the vintage filament LEDs and the popular GE Reveal LEDs (note, these bulbs weren’t on Caseta’s compatible bulb list. This said, many of my bulbs not on their list have worked flawlessly for years on other dimmers using a white neutral wire).- Flawlessly dims 8 LED kitchen tube lights (Toggle model d416 direct wire )’. The Toggle LED tubes replace 4ft fluorescents using existing receptacles (bypassing ballast). WORKS PERFECTLY (did not even try the other dimmer as the manufacture recommend the upgraded dimmer)- Works with dimmable ELV, LED, MLV, incandescent and halogen bulbs - has switch to support MLV (not supported with Caseta PD-6WCL-x)- Supports the pico remotes, but must be purchased separately.- Supports 29 8.5 watt led bulbs (Caseta PD-6WCL-x supports 17 - very respectable)CONS:- Priced higher than other dimmers, and it doesn’t include a Pico remoteLEDs are terrible at matching equivalent wattage and they’re usually brighter. The nice thing about dimmers and led lighting is you can purchase really bright bulbs for those times when you need something really bright, but use a dimmer so you only get the blinding light when requested. This, more expensive dimmer, supports this concept. The cheaper Caseta does not, it turns on at the switch at max brightness, and this is the main problem people have with the less expensive switch.Before buying Caseta look into the differences and consider spending the extra on the PD-5NE-xx switch. If it’s too much, you may want to research other products. I’ve read about people who purchased 20 of the cheaper switches, based on smart switch reviews, and ended up switching them out for the pricier model.The price is an obstacle, but the performance excels. I hope this helps you in your purchase.

If you are into smart devices for your home and specifically smart light switches, the Lutron Caseta PD-5NE is the best in my opinion. Better than the PD-6WCL, if you ask me. Why is that when the cost of the PD-5NE is around $100 and the PD-6WCL closer to $60? First of all the 5NE can handle about twice the wattage of lights than the 6CWL. I have multiple rooms with numerous can LED lights (15+). But more useful for me is the little round "preset" button in the middle of the switch on the PD-5NE. The PD-6WCL does not have one. We prefer our preset light level when turning on the switch manually in any room. And you can feel it in the dark. (If Lutron's was smart, they would embed a tiny LED in the middle of that preset button, just sayin'.) With the PD-6WCL you either turn it all the way on (like an old fashion SPST switch), or you hit the up-arrow button until you get the level you want. Otherwise to get a preset functionality with the PD-6WCL you must use the PJ2-3BRL Pico Remote to get that "preset" button. It is on the Pico Remote. But I prefer to remote control all my switches with my cell phone, not another remote control like Lutron's Pico. The Pico is fine for someone who wants one. It works with both the PD-6WCL *and* the PD-5NE. But the preset button on the 5NE is worth all that extra cost for me.

Here is a quick Lutron low EV Electronic Voltage lession, info. Cassete dimmers need a minimum 40 watts but really a minimum 50 watts or they don't turn off. Surprise, very few people or electricians know this yet. Wireless is a new system but in 10 years will be the norm. So if you have less than say 7 lights each at LED 7 watts then that equals 49 watts you can not use the regular Cassete dimmers. So if you have 2 wall sconces or mono points or an entry light or 4 lights in a bathroom you NEED these Low EV dimmers. The middle round button is half power, very convenient. Good luck.

La programmation et l'utilisation avec l'apps de Lutron fonctionne très bien. Toutefois, les LED sur le lumière ne s'éteignent pas complètement. Seulement, si je tire sur la languette de sécurité en dessous, que je finis par éteindre le luminaire. Finalement, ça ne fonctionne pas tel qu'attendu !

This is a good system if you have compatible lights and transformers. Compatibility is major drawback

Great product , saves you from wiring 3ways circuits